Created a century after that of Fez in 1558, the "Mellah" or Jewish quarter of Marrakech hosted until the middle of the 20th century over 30.000 Jews near the Badi Palace, which is now a popular area full of activity. Located in the south of the Medina or Old Town, the Jewish quarter was designed on 18 acres with the shape of a swastika, which is a common element of Berber decoration. From its small central street depart four main streets at right angles opening onto numerous perpendicular alleys. There are two "babs" or main doors in the high walls that lead to the Mellah, and inside these two doors there is a walled garden, shady and mysterious yet well-organized.
The Jewish population of Marrakech used to live here until the middle of last century. The construction of the Mellah was commissioned by Sultan Moulay Abdellah, but nothing remains of that bygone era apart from a synagogue and the Jewish cemetery. Today, the Jewish quarter is home to a hive of activity, starting with the Spice Market, which occupies a large area of the covered market. There, you will find many stalls displaying high colourful cones of cumin, coriander, "ras el hanout", turmeric and other spices in a beautiful succession yellow, red and beige of different shades. A spice auction takes place every day at 4:30 PM.
In this same area, you will find a multitude of very cheap high quality fabrics used to make curtains and cushions or to cover sofas and armchairs. A little further in, two former "foundouks"- Moroccan equivalent of the Eastern in-town caravanserais like Khan in Egypt and the Tunisian Oukalas- space have been converted into storage for medicinal and aromatic herbs. There are also all sorts of beauty products, such as the traditional "alum souak" stone, Aleppo soap, pumice, "khel", "kohl", "aker", etc.
Following the main street, where you can enjoy the few wooden balconies with an undeniable Spanish character, we come to the synagogue (do not hesitate to ask directions). Run by a charming old gentleman, it is in an old riad covered in blue and white zellige mosaics and occupied by a Muslim family. Around the patio, you will notice the Hebrew inscriptions that run all around the wall of the charming patio.
Then you can go back up the kisseria jewellers, next to the covered market. Inside two galleries, including one around a small patio, are located about forty stalls which sell gold and silver jewellery, once one of the specialties in which Jews excelled, as well as Berber jewellery, which is quite possibly some of the most fascinating silver and gold work in the world.
The walk ends with a stop at the tinsmiths square, which the Sultan ben Youssef was accustomed to cross to get to the Royal Palace through Bab Berrima and later General Lyautey to join the Bahia Palace, his private residence. The place owes its name to the Jewish craftsmen who recycled tin and turn it into household objects. Today it is a pedestrian square is surrounded by a pergola under which you can seat down and enjoy a refreshing mint tea.
So, come to the Ochre City and discover the fascinating Jewish influence in a Marrakech ryad. Besides the history of the Jews in Morocco, you will also come upon many other captivating influences, including Arab, Berber, Mediterranean, Saharan, etc.
In order to enjoy the real magic of this Ochre City, you can rent a riad at the very heart of the Mellah or in an idyllic natural setting just outside Marrakech, where you will get a unique opportunity to visit the Moroccan Jewish and Berber communities as well as their culture and their amazing heritage.
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